Kawasaki ZX14 Sensor Bypassing


I had a hard time finding out any info on wiring a Kawasaki for buggy/race use so I went through it and figured it out the old fashioned way. Coincedently it appears all the techniques to wire it up are very similar to the Suzuki 600/750/1000/Busa. I am guessing that most newer fuel injected Kawasaki bikes will be similar as well. Here is the ZX14 specific info though. Hopefully this can save others some time.

Here is the run down on bypassing antitheft and unused circuits

Ignition and Anti-theft Circuit

If you are not going to use the stock ignition key tumbler, you are going to need a resistor inline one of the wires at the ignition key switch. There is a 20-gauge GREY wire that runs from the ignition switch directly to the ECU. The white wire at the switch bundle of wires is the 12v from the battery. The brown wire is the ignition on wire so you can put your ignition toggle switch or whatever between these wires. You want to tie that grey antitheft wire into the brown wire but with a 1/4 watt 100ohm resistor in between them so the signal back to ECU is dropped to the appropriate voltage. Without this, the engine will not run. You can get the resistor at radio shack.

Side Stand Switch

Just connect the two wires. One is black/yellow and the other is green/white. These colors apply to the harness side of the connector, not the switch side. You can use this as a antitheft system with a hidden switch somewhere if you like that bridges this circuit.

Clutch Switch

This is referred to the starter lockout switch in the wiring diagram and is located in the left handlebar switch housing bundle of wires. You also connect these two wires to bypass this. You can also run this to a 2 prong brake pressure sensor in your hydraulic clutch line as a safety measure if you like. You can get the pressure switch here at the very bottom of the page. Buggy Throttle,Cable Brakes & Hydraulics - Page 1

Engine Stop Switch

This is located in the right handlebar switch housing bundle. This can be run to a safety switch or simply connected. It is either one of the red wires on the harness side of the connector and the brown/white wire.

Engine Start Switch

This is also located in the right handlebar switch housing bundle. This is the circuit that you will want to use a momentary push button switch on that will actually control the starter. It is either one of the red wires on the harness side of the connector and the black/red wire that need to be connected when your button is pushed.

Fuel Level Sensor

If you are using the factory bike gauge cluster and you don't want to see the fuel level bar flashing in series all the time, you will need to ground the white/yellow wire on the gauge pack bundle of wires. If you would like to use the factory fuel level gauge in the cluster which would be pretty nice, it operates with a 220-10ohm fuel level sending unit. This means 220ohms empty and 10ohms full. One side of the sending unit needs to be connected to a ground and the other connected to that white/yellow wire. I have a standard 240-33ohm sending unit that you can get from a boat parts supplier. I prefer the reed switch style that is in a tube instead of the type with a float arm hanging off, especially for an offroad car. I have a seperate fuel level gauge but I am going to try to tie it in since it is so close of an operating range. It should work well, I will let you know on that one. I got the sending unit here. Fuel Sending Units I got a seperate gauge from them as well. Fairly cheap and they got me what I needed without problems.

Tip Over Sensor

This is referrend to as the Vehicle Down Sensor in the wirirng diagram. You can try to leave this in place but I have read it will cause problems in real rough bumps etc. so this is how you bypass it if you choose to. The sensor has three wires going to it. You cut and cap/or remove the brown/black wire. Then you need to connect the blue and the yellow/green wire with a 1/4watt 68k ohm resistor between them. Make sure you get 68K and not 680,6.8k etc. This reistor drops the voltage from the blue wire to the yellow/green wire within the operating range of the TO sensor in the upright posistion.


Obviously you can go through the harness and get rid of all the other stuff that you don't need like lights etc.

If anyone has any questions on this, shoot me a PM or post it up. I have this harness memorized at this point. If you need a wiring diagram, let me know and I can send it to you. I don't know where to host it right now because it is too big for the site's limits.

Here is a host of the service manual. Don't know how long it will last. If it doesn't work, PM me.
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=9...4e75f6e8ebb871